Photography's Golden Age ended long ago but remains very much alive in my memory. From 1952 through 1965 I was an assistant to the world-famous photographer Richard Avedon during his most creative period, and do I ever have the stories to tell! Now is the time to reveal all, while I'm still alive and kicking. Tales of personalities, motivations, intrigues, and even the fine details of how it was all done!
What I need to make this project a reality is a co-conspirator to aid in getting the whole, true, uncensored story published -- either as a book, an e-book, or even a documentary for the historical record.
This quarterly journal deals with the past, present, and especially with the future of the role of assistants in fashion, fashion photography, style, the visual arts and more as a stepping stone to their own careers.
Seven pages of the beautifully-produced magazine are devoted to me and my time assisting photographer Richard Avedon in the 1950s and early 1960s, his most creative period. In this I left as advice:
"Be invisible. Do your job, but don't be the center of attention.
You are there to work, not to distract."
Assistant is published in France for worldwide distribution, and is completely in English. The quality of reproduction, the paper stock, and of the layouts approaches art-book levels.
Photography's Golden Age ended long ago but remains very much alive in my memory. From 1952 through 1965 I was an assistant to the world-famous photographer Richard Avedon during his most creative period, and do I ever have the stories to tell!Now is the time to reveal all, while I'm still alive and kicking. Tales of personalities, motivations, intrigues, and even the fine details of how it was all done.
What I need to make this project a reality is a co-conspirator to aid in getting the whole, true, uncensored story published -- either as a book, an e-book, or even a documentary for the record.
Anyone interested? Leave a message and I'll get back.
Visiting Bavaria? Check out my new app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch: Bavaria Travel: Munich & Great Day Trips. It's full of current, up-to-date information, special maps, day trips, walking tours, offbeat destions, and much, much, more. CLICK HERE.
Paul Shawcross, my fellow app writer with Sutro Media, has just published an interesting new travel app on Nice & Beyond to complement his previous southern France apps Dordogne Explorations and Provencal Roaming. These are available for download to the iPad, iPhone and iPod Touch devices as well as those operating on the Android system on Google. If you're headed that way it will pay you to check this out.
Nothing is more symbolic of Paris than the Eiffel Tower, so it seems appropriate to begin your walks with the classic view of it, perhaps ascending to the top for a sweeping panoramic survey of the city.
The suggested tour described here continues on through the most interesting neighborhoods (quartiers) of the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) but stops short of the Latin Quarter, covered on the next walk.
Along the way you will be able to visit some of the greatest sights in Paris, including the Invalides, the Rodin and Orsay museums, the picturesque quays along the Seine, and the colorful St.-Germain-des-Prés district. The walk ends in a delightful area that is especially rich in outdoor cafés, where you can relax in the traditional Parisian fashion.
The quickest way to get to the starting point of this walk from most parts of Paris is to take the Métro to Trocadéro. You can also reach it by bus routes 22, 30, 32, or 63. Buses 72 and 82 stop at the foot of the bridge opposite the Eiffel Tower. By Taxi, ask the driver for Place du Trocadéro.
CAFÉ DE FLORE
LE PETIT SAINT-BENOÎT
BAR DU MARCHÉ
LA CRÊPE RIT DU CLOWN
To see aDIAGRAM MAPof this tour just touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a map. Touch that to keep it on screen,THENslide a finger from right to left for the rest of the map and more photos. Touch upper left to return to text. Numbers on theDIAGRAM MAPcorrespond to numbers in the text.
Places mentioned inBOLD CAPITALtype have their own separate entries for full descriptions, reached by touching the name. These links DO NOT FUNCTION on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here.
Begin your walking tour at the Trocadéro Métro Station (1). Next to this stands the massive Palais de Chaillot, a Neo-Classical structure left over from the Paris Exposition of 1937. Built in two symmetrically-curved wings, it now houses a theater and a few minor museums that you might want to visit on another day.
Step out onto its central terrace for the most spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower possible, then continue straight ahead, going down steps past the gardens and fountains. The Pont d'Iéna, built by Napoleon in 1814 to commemorate a victory over the Prussians, spans the Seine and leads to the Left Bank. Rising dramatrically in front of you is the EIFFEL TOWER (2).
From the base of the tower a large open park called the Champ-de-Mars, originally a military parade ground, spreads southeast to the imposing École Militaire. Built in the 18th century, this famous military academy had among its graduates a young artillery lieutenant named Napoleon Bonaparte, who it predicted would "go far under favorable circumstances."
Napoleon, of course, did go far, but today he rests just around the corner at Les Invalides (3). Built by Louis XIV in the late 17th century as a retirement home for wounded war veterans, this monumental complex now houses several attractions. Along its southern end stands the Church of the Dome, an outstanding structure in the French Classical style designed by the most important architect of the time, Jules Hardouin-Mansart. Inside, in an open circular crypt, is a red porphyry sarcophagus containing the mortal remains of Napoleon. The great emperor is still deeply revered by the French people. Other notable soldiers buried here include Vauban and Marshal Foch.
The same complex includes the Museum of the Army(Musée de l'Armée), one of the greatest military museums on Earth. Part of it is on the east side of the inner courtyard and is devoted to the history of the French Army, while the section on the west side has a fine collection of medieval armor, weapons, and intriguing exhibits dealing with the two world wars of the past century. Connecting with it is the Museum of Relief Maps, which features superb scale models of Franch strongholds from 1668 to 1870.
Continue on through the complex and follow the map to one of the most enchantring sights in Paris, the RODIN MUSEUM (4).
The route now leads through the elegant Faubourg-Saint-Germain, a district of gracious mansions presently occupied by government ministries and foreign embassies. Next to the river is the Palais Bourbon, an 18th-century palace built by a daughter of Louis XIV and later embellished by Napoleon. Since 1827 it has housed the National Assembly, the lower house of the French Parliament.
A right turn on the Quai Anatole-France takes you along the Seine to Gare d'Orsay, a former railroad station built around 1900. Alas, its platforms proved to be too short for express trains and after 1939 it fell into virtual disuse. There were plans to demolish the noble structure, but reason prevailed and after a variety of more-or-less artistic uses it was converted into a museum in 1986. No visitor to Paris should miss the fabulous MUSÉE d'ORSAY (5).
Leave the museum and continue along the quai, which becomes even more colorful as you approach the Pont des Arts, a charming iron footbridge across the Seine that was opened in 1803.
Just beyond it is the Institut de France, home of the venerable Académie Française, a prestigious body charged with protecting the purity of the French language. This is surely a hopeless task in the land of le week-end and le hamburger. Other learned societies also meet beneath its majestic dome.
Adjacent to it is the former Royal Mint, the Hôtel des Monnaies (6). This now houses the small Museum of Coins and Medals, covering the entire scope of French minting from ancient to modern times. Closed for renovation until late 2013.
From here the route gets a bit tricky, so you'll have to follow the map carefully. It leads through some very old and colorful streets to the School of Fine Arts(École des Beaux-Arts) (7), founded in the early 19th century on the site of a former monastery. Although not generally open to the public, there are exhibitions of works by the students that you can see. Enter at 13 Quai Malaquais. Open Tues.-Sun., 1-7, € 4, reduced €2. W: ensba.fr.
Turn left on the Rue Bonaparte and left again on Rue Jacob, continuing on to the tiny Place de Fürstemberg. This is easily the most charming and romantic small square in Paris, with an atmosphere right out of the 17th century.
On its west side is the house where the artist Eugène Delacroix lived and worked until his death in 1863. It has been preserved as he left it, and is now the Delacroix Museum (8). Don't miss seeing this remarkable little gem. 6 Rue de Fürstenberg, Paris 75006, T: 01-44-41-86-50, W: www.musee-delacroix.fr. Open Wed.-Mon. 9:30-5. Closed Tues, Jan. 1, Dec. 25. Adults €5, free for under 18, for all on first Sun. of month, July 14, holders of ticket to Louvre Museum.
A right turn into the quaint Rue de l'Abbaye brings you to Place St.-Germain-des-Prés, one of the main centers of activity on the Left Bank. This is a great place to sit down at an outdoor café and just watch the world go by, perhaps at the famous Deux Magots or the Flore.
Facing the square is the 11th-century Church of St.-Germain-des-Prés (9), whose origins go back to the 6th century and which ranks as the oldest church in Paris. Originally this was part of an enormous Benedictine abbey whose 42,000 acres of land was surrounded by a defensive moat and extended all the way to the Seine. During the French Revolution the abbey was broken up and much of the church was vandalized. An unsatisfactory restoration in the 19th century didn't help matters, but the interior is still worth visiting for its interesting mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, and later styles.
Continue down the lively Boulevard St.-Germain. Many of the narrow streets leading off this thoroughfare in either direction are worth exploring if you have the time. When you get to the Odéon Métro stop, turn left into the well-hidden Cour du Commerce St.-André, a tiny alleyway lined with old shops.
There is so much to see around here by just poking into the little passageways and following your instincts. When you tire of this, turn down the delightful Rue St.-André-des-Arts to its eastern end, where some nice outdoor cafés provide the perfect spot to relax at the end of this walk. From here it is only a few steps to the St.-Michel Métro Station (10), where you can get a subway or RER train back to your hotel.
If you happen to be still burning with energy, you might want to begin Walk 2, THE LATIN QUARTER & CITÉ.
Visiting Paris? Check out my new app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch: Paris Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. It's full of current, up-to-date information, special maps, day trips, walking tours, offbeat destinations, and much, much more.
Here's a one-day trip from Innsbruck that's easy to do but packs a lot of alpine experiences into a single passage.
It begins by riding a small 19th-century steam-operated cogwheel train through gorgeous countryside to one of the most fabulous lakes anywhere.
There you ascend by cable car to the top of a 6,000-foot mountain and perhaps take a short trail walk with sweeping vistas, or even try your hand at paragliding.
To finish off a fun-filled day you board a boat for a two-hour cruise to lakeside villages and return, with the opportunity for dinner onboard. After that, it's back the way you came.
The Achensee is the largest lake in the Tirol, with crystal-clear mountain water that's nearly pure enough to drink without treatment. It is sometimes referred to as the "Fjord of the Alps" as it lies at the bottom of a deep valley surrounded by rugged snow-covered peaks.
This complete trip can only be taken between the beginning of May and the end of October, when both the steam train and the boats operate. Otherwise, you could drive or take buses the entire way, but that's not nearly as much fun.
Watch your time carefully so you don't miss the last connection back to Jenbach.
There are numerous places for lunch around Maurach, the upper station of the Rohan cable car, and on board the lake steamer. All serve typical Tyrolean dishes, or just coffee, cakes, and other refreshments.
Trains depart Innsbruck's main station quite frequently for the short ride to Jenbach, which takes no more than 30 minutes. Return service operates until late evening.
By Car, take the A-12 highway 22 miles (35 km) northeast to Jenbach, then north a few blocks on Achenseestrasse and right on Bahnhofstrasse. There you'll find the Achenseebahn station to the right.
Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into aDIAGRAM MAP. Touch this to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERSon the map correspond to numbers in the text.
[Names inBOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERSare actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].
Begin at the Achenseebahn station (1), next to Jenbach's regular train station. Here you purchase a combo ticket valid for the cogwheel train, cable cars, and boats, then board the ancient ACHENSEEBAHN steam train for a 35-minute ride to Maurach.
From the Maurach stop (2) it is only a short walk to the Rofan Seilbahn (3), a cable car that takes you right up to the ROFANSPITZE (4), where you can take an easy hike along the mountain top, engage in the thrilling sport of paragliding, enjoy the view from the Eagle's Nest, or just have lunch at one of several mountain inns.
Returning to the valley, either re-board the cog train or walk to Seespitz (5), the lakeside terminus of the rail line. Here you board a lake steamer for the one-hour ACHENSEE CRUISE to Scholastica (6), and another one-hour ride back to Seespitz, followed by the steam train back to Jenbach. Meals are available on board the boats.
SCHLOSS TRATZBERG (7) lies a short ride west of Jenbach. Dating from at least 1149 and presented in a fairytale manner, this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Austria.
Visiting the Austrian Alps? Check out my new app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch: Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps. It's full of current, up-to-date information, special maps, day trips, walking tours, offbeat destinations, and much, much more.
Located at the end of a tidal creek, the ancient port of Faversham has remained a delightfully unpretentious little town for over a thousand years. Relatively few tourists venture this way, but those who do are enchanted by its simple charms.
Settlements existed on this site since prehistoric times, with Faversham being mentioned in a charter of AD 811. It became a town of some importance during the Middle Ages, when many of its present structures were built. Along with Dover, Rye, and a few other towns, it was a member of the Cinque Ports confederation, owing allegiance only to the Crown.
Despite this heritage, the town is not another preserved relic of the past but a growing community with its own thriving industries. A visit to Faversham makes a refreshing change from the usual tourist circuit and can easily be combined with one to Canterbury.
Trains depart London's Victoria Station [VIC] at least twice an hour for the 77-minute ride to Faversham [FAV]. Return service operates until late evening.
By Car, Faversham is 49 miles southeast of London via the A3 and M2 highways.
Good weather is essential for this outdoor trip. A colorful outdoor market is held on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The local Tourist Information Centre is in the Fleur de Lis Heritage Centre at 11 Preston Street.
Annual events include a Classic Car Rally in May, a Hop Festival in early September, and a Carnival in mid-October. Ask at the Tourist Centre for current details, or check their website.
Commemorative plaques and viewpoint keys have been installed in the town, helping to bring history to life. An excellent guide to these can be downloaded from their website.
Faversham is in the county of Kent and has a population of about 18,000.
FOOD & DRINK:
Faversham is famous for its brewery, Shepherd Neame, which was founded here in 1698, is the oldest in Britain, and still makes what is called "real ale." Their Visitor Centre at 10 Court Street offers brewery tours on select days, T: (01797) 542-016, W: shepherdneame.co.uk. Advance booking is recommended. Two-hour tours with tasting cost £11.50 for adults, £10.50 for seniors, and £9 for children 12-17.
Some choice places to eat are:
FAVERSHAM KEBAB HOUSE
PHOENIX TAVERN & RESTAURANT
THE SUN INN
Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into aDIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THENslide a finger from right to left to enjoy more photographic views. NUMBERSon the map correspond to numbers in the text. NOTEthat on this map north points to the left in order to conserve space.
[Names inBOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERSare actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].
Leave the train station (1) and walk down Preston Street to the tourist office and museum. The Fleur de Lis Heritage Centre (2) provides an excellent introduction to Faversham's past and present. The former 15th-century inn that houses it also contains the FLEUR DE LIS MUSEUM AND GALLERY.
Continue down Preston Street, turning left on Market Street. It was in the house at number 12 that King James II was held prisoner by local fishermen when he tried to flee the country in 1688.
In a few yards you will come to the Guildhall (3), a rather elegant Georgian building set atop 16th-century pillars. An open-air market is held under this on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Established in 1086, it is the oldest market in Kent, and a wonderful place to meet the locals. Note the interesting town pump at the rear.
Court Street contains many fine 17th- and 18th-century houses. Follow it to Church Street and turn right to the parish church of St. Mary of Charity (4), which has a particularly elegant, and very rare, crown spire. It dates mostly from around 1320, though the nave is mainly 18th-century, with one Norman bay. The grotesque misericords in the choir are among the finest in England. Other features unusual for a parish church are the aisled transepts and the 14th-century frescoed pillar. This is actually the second-largest parish church in Kent, and larger than some of Britain's smaller cathedrals. Stroll around the churchyard, then follow the footpath to Abbey Place, passing the 16th-century Old Grammar School.
The famous 15th-century Arden's House on the southeast corner of Abbey Place was the scene of a notorious murder in 1551, which became the basis for the first play in English to use a contemporary event as its theme. Published in 1592, Arden of Feversham is still in the national repertory.
Abbey Street is lined with well-preserved houses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Turn right on it and walk down to Standard Quay (5).
Going past old warehouses, follow the creek until you come to a former warehouse, now beautifully converted to office use. All along here you will see old sailing barges, some of which are restored as houseboats, and which still take place in sailing barge races in the summer.
The sailing barge GRETA of 1892 may be chartered for trips by groups of up to 12; individuals can be fit in with groups if space permits. Make advance reservations atT: (07711) 657-919, W: greta1892. co.uk.
Now return to Abbey Street and make a right at Quay Lane. Cross the bridge by the brewery and walk out along Front Brents, from which you get a colorful view of the tiny waterway. Faversham's prosperity has always been closely linked with the creek, and 350 years ago it was England's main wool-exporting port, with busy trade to the Netherlands.
From here follow the map past the austere 12th-century Davington Church and down to Stonebridge Pond (6). Local streets opposite lead to the restored CHART GUNPOWDER MILLS (7).
Return to the pond and turn right on West Street. In a short distance this becomes a charming pedestrians-only street leading back to the Guildhall.
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The Wiener Riesenrad in VIENNA'S PRATER, one of the oldest and surely the most famous Ferris wheel in the whole world, is not far from downtown. Fans of classic movies will remember its starring role in The Third Man, a film noir of 1949 that defined what suspense is all about. This is a must-see for just about every visitor to Vienna.
Built in 1897, first slated for demolition in 1916 and severely damaged in World War II, it has survived to this day and is now better than ever. Located near the entrance to Vienna's great Prater — described in a separate entry under Amusements — it towers some 212 feet above both arms of the Danube and provides a sweeping panoramic view of the city and its surrounds.
A recent development is the outfitting of a few luxury cabins, which include fancy meal service and must be arranged in advance.
In The Third Man, the movie that made the Riesenrad famous, Holly Martins (Joseph Cotten) and his erstwhile friend Harry Lime (Orson Welles) are riding alone in one of the cabins as it nears the top. Martins then accuses Lime of causing the death of hundreds of poor souls by selling tainted penicillin on the postwar black market, and asks "Have you ever seen any of your victims?" Looking down on the people far below, Lime responds by asking Martins if he would feel any pity if one of those tiny dots stopped moving forever. "If I offered you twenty thousand pounds for every dot that stopped, would you really, old man, tell me to keep my money, or would you calculate how many dots you could afford to spare? Free of income tax, old man. Free of income tax."
Back on the ground he adds something to the extent that the Italians under the Borgias had many years of wars, terrorism, murders and bloodshed, but wound up producing Michaelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and the Renaissance. "In Switzerland they had brotherly love, they had five hundred years of democracy and peace — and what did that produce? The cuckoo clock. So long Holly." Okay, not quite accurate. The Swiss never made cuckoo clocks, and in the past they were anything but peaceful. But the point was made.
Getting to the PRATER and its Riesenrad is easy. Take U-Bahn subways U1 or U2 to Praterstern, or commuter trains S1-S3, S7, or S15 to Wien Nord. Streetcars 0 or 5, and bus 80A go there also. By taxi, ask for Praterstern. Or just walk there.
Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into aDIAGRAM MAPshowing the relationship of the Prater to the Altstadt. Touch that to remain on screen, THENslide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text.
There are numerous restaurants and cafés nearby, and in the adjacent Wurstelprater Amusement Area.
Visiting Vienna? Check out my new app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch: Vienna Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. It's full of current, up-to-date information, special maps, day trips, walking tours, offbeat destinations, and much, much more.