Life's Little Adventures

Welcome!

There are hundreds of posts here on a wide variety of subjects, but finding whatever interests you is easy! Just go to the left-hand column and click on the appropriate category. Some of these lead directly to articles, while others open an index with descriptions of the many choices. Older postings are frequently updated. The most popular categories are: Free Daytrips Chapters (taken from my Daytrips series of travel guides), The Avedon Years (about my 10 years of assisting photographer Richard Avedon), and ASA/Military Service (about my experiences in the U.S. Army Security Agency in the 1950s). 

The Wendelstein Mountain, Germany

Trip 22

The Wendelstein

A Daytrip from Munich

Towering at some 6,000 feet, the Wendelstein may not be the highest peak in the Bavarian Alps, but it does provide the focus for a very enjoyable daytrip. Münchners have been reveling in the view from its summit ever since Germany's first alpine rack railway was built there in 1912. A cable car down its other side has since been added, making possible an exciting circular tour. Add to this the charming small resort of Bayrischzell and you have the makings of a fun-filled day in the mountains.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station several times in the morning for the 90-minute ride direct to Bayrischzell. Those making the full circular trip will be returning via Brannenburg, from which trains to Munich run until early evening. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim. If you decide against making the full circuit you can return from Osterhofen as late as early evening. Be sure to check the schedules very carefully; they vary on weekends and holidays. Schedules are at W: bahn.de.

By Car, Bayrischzell is 77 km (48 miles) southeast of Munich. Take the A-8 Autobahn to the Irschenberg exit and head south on local roads past Schliersee to Bayrischzell. It is not very practical to make the full circular tour by car, although there is limited bus service (May to September only) from Brannenburg back to Osterhofen.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is absolutely essential for this trip as it involves a few miles of pleasant country walking, except for those who are driving. The cable car and rack railway operate all year round, except for two weeks in mid-April. Bayrischzell has a local Tourist Information Office (Kurverwaltung), T: (08023) 648, W: bayrischzell.de, at Kirchplatz 2. The permanent population of Bayrischzell is about 1,600.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Zur Post (Schulstr. 3 in Bayrischzell) An alpine hotel noted for its cooking. T: (08023) 819-710. X: Tues. in April, May & Oct. €€

Hotel Wendelstein (Ursprungstr. 1 in Bayrischzell) An inn with good-value meals in a beer garden. T: (08023) 808-90. X: Mon., Nov. to mid-Dec. € and €€

Wendelsteinhaus (at the top of the cable car) Meals, snacks or drinks with a view, indoors or out, full service or self-service. T: (08023) 404. €, €€ and €€€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Bayrischzell train station (1). Tourist information is available at the Kur office near the church to the left. You might want to pick up a large-scale map (Wanderkarte) of the area before setting out. The pretty village is small enough to explore in a half-hour or so, and has a good selection of restaurants and cafés.

From Bayrischzell you can walk along a lovely trail (sign-posted as Route K5) just north of the railway line to the cable car station in Osterhofen (2), a distance of just under two miles. It is also possible to get there by train, bus, taxi, car, or bike.

Those making the circular tour should purchase a combination ticket for the cable car and rack railway to Brannenburg. If you would rather return to Munich from Osterhofen you can get a round-trip cable car ticket (Berg und Talfahrt) instead. Board the cable car (Seilbahn) for the eight-minute ride to the top. T: (08034) 30-80, W: wendelsteinbahn.de. Roundtrip €€€. Roundtrip including bus back to Osterhofen €€€€.

From the upper station (3) you can stroll out on a terrace for a fabulous view of the Alps and the Chiemsee far below. Food and drinks with a view are offered at the Wendelsteinhaus. There is an attractive chapel nearby, the highest in Germany, which dates from 1718. Just below this is the entrance to the 600-foot-long cave (Höhle), giving you a chance to explore the insides of the mountain. Trails lead in several directions, the most interesting of which climbs to the solar observatory at the summit (6,035 feet above sea level). Be sure to visit the Geo-Park (photo, below).

The rack railway (Zahnradbahn) to Brannenburg leaves from a station nearby. Those making the circular trip should board it for the delightful half-hour descent to the valley station (4). From here it is possible to get one of the infrequent buses (May-September only) back to Osterhofen, or walk a little less than two miles to the Brannenburg train station (5) and take a train from there to Munich. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Bayrischzell Tourist Office.

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This complete chapter is taken from my recent guidebooks Daytrips Germany and the more compact Daytrips Bavaria. CHECK THEM OUT by clicking on their titles in the boxes below:

Bletchley Park, England

A new addition to the forthcoming Eighth Edition of my guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and yet intriguing visit to Bletchley Park, a once top-secret hideaway where the Allies' best codecrackers deciphered Nazi communications by breaking the Enigma ciphers. What fascinated me about this place was my Cold War service in the former U.S. Army Security Agency, which did similar work from1945 through 1976.

Trip 00

A Daytrip From London

Bletchley Park

Enigma: Someting that is not easily explained or understood.

Many of the deepest secrets of World War II are revealed at this rather nondescript estate north of London, where British and American cryptographers decoded the most sensitive Nazi and Japanese communications and played a critical part in the ultimate Allied victories. Military history buffs will love this place, as will anyone fascinated by computers. Not only was this a top-secret intelligence center, but it was also home to the world's first digital computer, which has recently been replicated. Conveniently, the National Museum of Computing is here as well.

 

This is also the best place to learn about the fabled ENIGMA machine and its big brother, the LORENZ — Hitler's secret weapons that could have won him mastery over Europe had not the specialists at Bletchley done their jobs so well. 

Bletchley is part of the modern "New Town" of Milton Keynes, created in 1967 at a point midway between London, Birmingham, Cambridge, and Oxford. UNLIKE other Daytrip destinations, it is not configured as a suggested walking tour since everything is in one place. The text below simply describes what there is to see and experience.

GETTING THERE:

Trains operated by Silverlink depart London's Euston Station frequently for the 40-minute ride to Bletchley, with returns until mid-evening. Schedules at W: nationalrail.co.uk. Bletchley Station is very close to the estate.

By Car, take the A5 north to the A4146, exit marked Bletchley/Fenny Stratford. At the next big roundabout make a left onto a dual highway. When you pass under a railway bridge, follow signs to the Railway Station, making a right onto Sherwood Drive. Bletchley Park is on the left shortly. Those using Satellite-Navigation should enter Sherwood Drive, Bletchley as the destination. Bletchley Park is about 60 miles (97 km) northwest of London.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bletchley Park is open daily except December 24, 25, 26, and New Year's Day. The National Museum of Computing, also on the same grounds and same admission ticket, is however only open on Thursdays and Saturdays at the present time. Visitors should wear sensible clothes and footwear as some outdoor walking is involved. Dogs are not allowed, except for guide dogs. The site is fully handicap-accessible; wheelchairs are provided with advance reservation. There are no restrictions on photography or videoing. Further information is on the web at W: bletchleypark.org, tnmoc.org, and destinationmiltonkeynes.co.uk.

FOOD AND DRINK:

The Galley Bar & Restaurant (in Hut 4 in the park) A full range of meals, snacks, and drinks are served in a restored WWII codebreaking hut. £ and ££

There are also a few pubs nearby on Buckingham Road.

WHAT TO SEE:

BLETCHLEY PARK, Sherwood Drive, Bletchley, Milton Keynes, T: (01908) 640-404, W: bletchleypark.org. Open April-Oct., Mon.-Fri. 9:30-5, Sat.-Sun. 10:30-5; Nov.-March, daily 10:30-4. ££.

Begin at the Block-B Exhibition Centre, housed in an original wartime building. This is where you can get a good introduction to the processes of communications interception, decryption, translation, interpretation, and analysis — the very heart of intelligence gathering that was so vital to winning the war. Surely, the most famous item here is the Nazi ENIGMA machine (photo, right), an electro-mechanical device that uses a series of rotating wheels to scramble plaintext messages into incoherent ciphertext. There were billions and billions of possible combinations, so the system was considered to be absolutely secure to all except another Enigma macine with exactly the same settings. There was a weak point, however. Any letter of the alphabet could represent any other letter, EXCEPT itself. That clue, and work done by Polish mathematicians before the war enabled the Bletchley codebreakers to crack the Enigma code early on, giving the Allies a big advantage that probably shortened the war by two years and saved countless lives. 

Much of the Enigma codecracking was done on the Bombe machine, developed here by mathematicians Alan Turing (considered to be the "father" of digital computing) and Gordon Welchman. Some 200 of these were built, and all destroyed after the war for security reasons. One is presently being rebuilt at Bletchley.

There are displays of similar machines dating from the 1920s to the 1970s, from Britain, U.S.A., Germany, Russia, Sweden, and Switzerland.

Also to be seen in Block B is an exhibition of life in the Home Front during the war, memories of combat by the local regiment, Toys and Memorabilia from the era, a living history of the German 65th Nachrichten Abteilung signals group, and B.P. Station X, an amateur radio station using vintage equipment.

Leaving Block B, the Garage contains vintage cars from the era, some of which have been featured in movies. Likewise, the period Post Office has a collection of stamps, secret undercover mail, and a gift shop.

Hut 1 is devoted to the Diplomatic Wireless Service, whose original equipment was used here during WWII to transmit and receive secret ULTRA and DIPLOMATIC messages. This is open on weekends only.

The Churchill Collection features memorabilia of the great wartime Prime Minister, who described the folks at Bletchley as "The geese that laid golden eggs — but never cackled." Open weekends plus Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from noon to 4.

In the mood for a walk? The American Garden Trail starts from in front of the mansion and wanders around the grounds — all the while celebrating the ties at Bletchley between the British and Americans who served there.

Block H is home to:

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COMPUTING, T: (07939) 471-765, W: tnmoc.org. Open Thurs. and Sat., 1-5. Admission included with Bletchley Park.

The history of computers from the 1940s to the present day is covered in a sizeable collection of machines big and small. What is regarded as the world's first semi-programmable computer, the Colossus, was developed here and aided greatly in breaking the Nazi LORENZ codes, which were even more complex than the ENIGMA's. This machine is presently being reconstructed here. Visitors can operate many of the computers as a hands-on experience.

Text and map copyright © 2009 Earl Steinbicker.

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CHECK OUT Daytrips London by clicking on its name in the left-hand box below. NOTE that Bletchley is NOT included in the currently available 7th Edition of 2003. It will be in the 8th edition, 2010. 

There are many books on the subject of codebreaking at Bletchley — you might begin by checking out the ones listed below, which leads to still more choices:

Walking The High Line to the Chelsea Piers

New York City's latest attraction just opened on June 8, 2009, so naturally I had to give it a try. Imagine an elevated park, 30 feet above street level, winding its way through Lower Manhattan and piercing right through buildings. That's The High Line, and it's quite an accomplishment.

How did this come about? Its history actually goes all the way back to 1849, when the Hudson River Railroad ran a street-level line to the junction of Chambers and Hudson streets. Its locomotives tended to frighten horses, so each train was preceeded by a man on horseback blowing a horn. As the city grew and motor traffic replaced horses, this became more than a nuisance and a very real safety concern. By the late 1920s congestion had become so bad that it was decided to elevate the rail line, then owned by the New York Central Railroad. This work was completed in the mid-1930s and continued operation until 1980. After that, it was abandoned and slowly reverted to nature. Slated for demolition, the High Line was saved by activist citizens and in 2006 restoration by the city began.

A friend and I began our walk at the southern terminus, Gansevoort Street at Washington Street, in the heart of the historic Meatpacking District. We got there from Penn Station via the 8th Avenue subway to 14th Street, then walked three blocks to the southwest. The line south of here had previously been demolished. Here, a stairway (photo, above) leads up to the park with its magnificent views across the Hudson River to Hoboken, New Jersey.

The map above shows both the currently opened section, from Gansevoort Street north to 20th Street, and the section north of that to 30th Street which should open next year. Another section, from 30th Street northwest by the Penn Station Rail Yards is under negotiation with its owners, the CSX railroad.

Leaving Gansevoort Street (photo, above), we climbed the stairway (there are also elevators at 14th and 16th streets) some thirty feet to the linear park. From here a paved pedestrian walkway leads north to the end, bordered on the sides by remnants of the abandoned rail line. Between the tracks grow flowers, plants, and even trees (photo, right). Volunteer gardeners were busy at work making it even more attractive.

Oddly, the High Line passes through several buildings along the way. Most of these were once industrial structures and warehouses, with rail sidings leading in at the third-floor level. Some of them have recently been converted into highly desirable loft apartments, and others into art galleries.

At 15th Street the trail cuts through the old Chelsea Market Building, formerly a Nabisco factory. Beyond this is the Northern Spur, where a side track went into a meat warehouse. It is now a horticultural preserve.

The High Line crosses Tenth Avenue around 17th Street, and a section of the structure has been lowered in steps to form a viewing platform looking out across the midtown skyline. A glass wall prevents those carried away by the view from falling off and tumbling down to the streets below.

Plans are afoot to build a grand staircase at 18th Street, leading down to a public plaza. Above this, a cantilevered snackbar will hover above the site. 

Strolling through the Chelsea Grasslands leads to the present northern terminus at 20th Street. Beyond this, the High Line is still under development and should open in 2010. Another friend, reached by cell phone, joined us nearby.

From here it is only a short walk across Eleventh Avenue to the famous Chelsea Piers. Built in the early 1900s to accomodate ocean liners, the piers have a colorful history. This was the destination in 1912 of the Titanic, which of course sank on its maiden voyage, and it was here that its 706 survivors arrived aboard the RMS Carpathia. Three years later the RMS Lusitania (photo, right) sailed from these piers on its fateful journey to England. It was torpedoed by the German Navy off the coast of Ireland with great loss of life, an event that hastened America's entry into World War I.

In the mid-1930s passenger ships were moved north to new, larger piers around 50th Street, and the Chelsea Piers reduced to cargo handling as well as World War II troop ships. Nearly demolished in the early 1990s, they were saved by the abandonment of the Westway Project, and now form a major sports and entertainment complex.

We ended our day of exploring the High Line and Chelsea Piers by visiting a few of the sports facilities spread over 28 acres above the Hudson River. Among the many activities available are gymnastics, soccer, basketball, rock climbing, a golf driving range, health club, and more. But after shooting a few hoops my companions agreed with me that a visit to the Chelsea Brewing Company at the southern end of the complex was in order. There we had sandwiches and a variety of craft beers brewed on the spot before returning to Penn Station for the train ride home. 

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The Wienerwald, Austria

Ah, the Vienna Woods — the perfect daytrip from the Austrian capital. Explore it on your own by following these pages from my recent guidebook, Daytrips Austria. Enjoy!

Trip 5

The

Wienerwald

A Daytrip from Vienna

Vienna is indeed fortunate to have its beloved Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), an area of forested hills that form the northeastern end of the Alps. From here comes the city’s fresh air and clean water, and to here flock its inhabitants on weekend escapes. Besides natural beauty, the region boasts quaint villages, an historic abbey, the site of a romantic tragedy, one of Europe’s oldest spa towns, and plenty of rustic wine taverns where you can end your day sampling the new vintage.

You’ll need a car to do this trip in its entirety, and if you’re trying the wine you’ll also need a designated driver. There is, however, some limited bus service to the major sites, and the spa town of Baden-bei-Wien is easily reached from Vienna by streetcar or train – and the wine town of Gumpoldskirchen by train.

 

GETTING  THERE:

By Car, Head south from Vienna on the B-12 road, starting as Breitenfurter Strasse just southeast of Schönbrunn. Turn left at the sign for Perchtoldsdorf Zentrum and follow “Zentrum” signs into the center of Perchtoldsdorf. After seeing that town return to the B-12 and continue south, following directions in the text. Taken in its entirety, this trip is about 50 miles (80 km) roundtrip from central Vienna.

Public Transportation is really practical only to the towns of Baden and Gumpoldskirchen. For Baden, the easiest way is to take the Badener Bahn (Lokalbahn) streetcar that runs frequently from the Opera in Vienna. This is privately owned and does not accept passes. Otherwise, take a commuter train from Vienna’s Südbahnhof, which also stops at Gumpoldskirchen.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip may be taken on nearly any day in fine weather, bearing in mind that the Beethoven House and some other attractions in Baden are closed on Mondays. The Tourist Information Office in Baden is located at Brusattiplatz 3 at Leopoldsbad, T: (02252) 2260-0600, W: baden.com/english.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Café Sauerhof (Wilburgstr. 11 in Baden, 5 blocks southwest of the Beethoven House, in the Hotel Sauerhof) Quality café food, featuring a Sunday brunch from Sept.-June. T: (02252) 412-51-0, W: sauerhof.at. €€€

Rudolfshof (Am Gamingerberg, above the Kurpark in Baden) Regional cuisine or just snacks in an old hunting lodge. T: (02252) 209-203. X: Tues., also Wed. in off-season. €€ 

Café Damals (Rathausgasse 3 in Baden, by the Beethoven House) Local dishes in an attractive courtyard. T: (02252) 426-86. X: Sun. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Just beyond Vienna, a side road leads southeast from the B-12 into the historic old town of Perchtoldsdorf (1), otherwise known as Petersdorf. Around its central market place (Markt) stands an unusual fortified tower, or keep, of 1465, noted for its steep roof and corner turrets. Close to this is the Pfarrkirche (parish church) of 1340, where a massacre of its  congregation by invading Turks took place in 1683. Memories of this, and other horrors of that time, are kept alive in the small Türkenmuseum (Turkish Museum) located in the nearby 15th-century Rathaus (town hall). Tragedy of another kind is remembered by the Pestsäule (plague column), created in 1713 by the famous architect J.B. Fischer von Erlach.

Return to the B-12 road and continue south, following the map past Sulz-im-Wienerwald and Sittendorf until you come to the entrance, on the left, of Naturpark Sparbach (2). Long a summer retreat for Vienna’s citizens, this nature reserve features woodland paths, game enclosures, a lake, and a children’s zoo. T: (02237) 7611, W: naturparke.at. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov. and Jan.-March weekends only, 10 to 3, 4, 5, or 6 depending on month. €.

Crossing the A-21 Autobahn, turn right on the B-11 road and head south to:

STIFT HEILIGENKREUZ (Heiligenkreuz Abbey) (3), T: (02258) 8703, W: stift-heiligenkreuz.at. Tours at 10, 11, 2, 3, 4 daily; no 10 a.m. tour on Sun. Wine cellar. Restaurant. €€.

Photo of Abbey (above) © Stift-Heiligenkreuz

Begun in 1133, Austria’s oldest Cistercian abbey takes its name from a relic of the True Cross given to it in the 12th century. The Cistercian order was founded in France in the late 11th century as a reformation of the older orders; originally it featured severe austerity, but this has mellowed over the years. Tours visit the Trinity Column in the courtyard, followed by the 12th-century *Abbey Church itself. The nave of this is starkly Romanesque, but opens into a Gothic choir with lovely stained-glass windows. The Cloister marks the transition from the Romanesque into the Gothic, with an interesting nine-sided fountain room and Renaissance basin. The Babenburgs, who ruled Austria from 976 until 1246, have their tombs in the Chapter House along with their likenesses. Other rooms to see include St. Anne’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Dead, the Fraterie, and the Sacristy.

Continue west on the B-11, soon turning left for Mayerling. (4). This hamlet is better known for a sensational tragedy of forbidden love and suicide that rocked the nation in 1889 than for anything you can actually see; still it attracts countless visitors to this day. Long hushed up by the Imperial Family and cloaked in mystery, the story goes more or less like this: Archduke Rudolf, the 30-year-old heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary, was disliked by the aristocracy for his liberal politics, disbelief in religion, womanizing, drinking, and other unsavory practices. Although married at the time to Stephanie of Belgium, he began an affair with the 17-year-old Baroness Maria Vetsera. His father, the stern Emperor Franz-Joseph, tried to put an end to this by making threats, which only drove Rudolph to despair. The Archduke then fled with Maria to his hunting lodge at Mayerling, where two days later they were both found dead of gunshots. What was probably a double suicide (or a murder followed by suicide?) was quickly covered up by the family; only in recent decades have some of the facts become known. The hunting lodge was demolished on orders of the emperor, and replaced with a Carmelite Convent whose chapel covers the site of the bedroom where the tragedy took place. This and adjoining rooms containing mementoes may be visited. T: (02258) 8703-2275. Open daily 9-noon and 2-6. €.

Head east on the B-210 road to the classic old spa town of Baden-bei-Wien (5)-(9), usually just called Baden. This is a wonderful place to just stroll around in, taking in the ambiance, as well as visiting a few of the sights. Tourist Office, Brusattiplatz 3, T: (02252) 2260-0600, W: baden.com/english.

What better place to begin exploring Baden than at its Kurpark (5)? Enjoy a delightful walk through this manicured park, possibly stopping at the bandstand, where free spa concerts are given from May through September, every day except Mondays, in the late afternoon. After checking your watch against the flower clock, you might want to try your luck at the Casino, whose gaming tables open at 3. For more casual gaming, the slots open at 1. Either way, you must be at least 19 and must show ID.

Meander down Theresiengasse to Hauptplatz, an elegant square embellished with the inevitable Dreifaltigkeitssäule (Trinity Column), a feature common to many an Austrian town. Opposite this is the impressive Rathaus (town hall) of 1815, and right around the corner is the:

BEETHOVENHAUS (6), Rathausgasse 10, T: (02252) 8680-0230. Open Tues.-Fri. 4-6, weekends and holidays 10-12 and 4-6. €.

Ludwig van Beethoven (painting, left), who lived at what seem to be countless addresses in and around Vienna, called these small digs home on several occasions, and it was here that he completed much of his Missa Solemnis as well as the towering Ninth Symphony between 1821 and 1823. Although the furnishings are sparse (photo, below), this is a must-see for all admirers of his music.

Time permitting, there are several other attractions in Baden in addition to the hot-spring spa facilities that made the town famous since the time of the ancient Romans. These include the Emperor Franz-Joseph Museum (7), devoted mostly to local folk art and artifacts. T: (02252) 411-00. Open April-Oct., Tues.-Sun. and holidays 2-6. 11-5. €. Another site of local interest is the Rollett Museum (8), which covers Baden’s long history along with a miscellaneous collection of such oddities as human skulls used in the “science” of phrenology. T: (02252) 482-55. Open Wed.-Mon. 3-6. €. Gardeners will enjoy a visit to the Rosarium (9) in Doblhoff Park, where some 25,000 roses bloom over an area of 3.5 acres. This is especially attractive in June; ask at the tourist office for specific details.

Depart Baden and head north on the B-212 road to Gumpoldskirchen (10), a charming village filled with inviting Heurigen — those simple wine taverns where local families dispense their own Heuriger (new wine) at rustic tables, usually in a vine-covered courtyard and often with simple musical accompaniment. This is great and inexpensive fun-filled way to end your day – just wander around to find a place that appeals to you. 

Copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

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Salisbury & Stonehenge, England

Here's a trip into the mysterious past that also explores one of England's prettiest towns, taken from the pages of my guidebook Daytrips London and updated to 2009 in preparation for a new Eighth Edition.

I took the Black & White photo (in text below) of Stonehenge in the mid-1970s, when visitors could still walk right up to the stones and commune with them. Today this requires advance reservations via their website and can only be done during hours when the site is closed to the public. 

Trip 29

A Daytrip from London

*Salisbury

and 

Stonehenge

The cathedral city of Salisbury is a relative newcomer as English towns go; having been first settled in 1220 when the local bishop moved his cathedral down from the hilltop stronghold known as Sarum. Dating from prehistoric times, this earlier site was of great importance to the Romans, who called it Sorviodunum. Later becoming the Saxon settlement of Searoburh, it acquired a Norman castle and a cathedral during the 11th century. Frequent clashes between the clergy and the military, as well as harsh conditions imposed by a dry, windswept location, led to the establishment of a new town in the more hospitable meadows along the River Avon, just two miles to the south. After this, Old Sarum gradually died out. Its abandoned cathedral was demolished in 1331 and the stones reused for building a wall around the new town's cathedral close. By the 16th century the site was completely deserted although, as the rottenest of the Rotten Boroughs, it continued to send two members to Parliament until 1832.

 

The new town of Salisbury has always been a peaceful place that escaped the vicissitudes of history. Since its cathedral was one of the few to be based on a chapter of secular canons rather than a monastery, it quickly became a worldly center with all of the features of a thriving provincial capital. Salisbury today is an extraordinarily beautiful town made all the more fascinating by its proximity to the mysterious Stonehenge, one of England's most popular tourist attractions.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by South West Trains depart London's Waterloo Station frequently for the 1½-hour ride to Salisbury, with return service operating until mid-evening. Schedules are reduced on Sundays and holidays. Schedules at W: southwesttrains.co.uk. There is bus service for Stonehenge from Salisbury.

By Car, Salisbury is 91 miles southwest of London via the M3, A303, and A30 highways. To get to Stonehenge, take the A345 north to Amesbury, then the A303 and A344 west to the site. Stonehenge is about 10 miles from Salisbury. Old Sarum is along the way, about two miles north of Salisbury on the A345.

PRACTICALITIES:

Salisbury may be visited on any day, although some sights are closed on Sundays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01722) 334-956, W: visitsalisbury.com, is on Fish Row behind the Guildhall on Market Place. During summer there is a branch office in the train station. A colorful outdoor market is held there on Tuesdays and Saturdays until mid-afternoon. Salisbury is in the county of Wiltshire, and has a population of about 39,000.

The Wilts & Dorset Bus Company operates a special bus to Stonehenge, half-hourly in summer and less frequently in the other seasons. These depart from the train station and then from the bus station on Endless St., the cost being ₤₤₤ including entrance to the site. T: (01983) 827005, W: thestonehengetour.info.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town is famous for its ancient pubs. Some of the best of these, and restaurants too, are:

[list is being updated for the new eighth edition]

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Depending on your arrival time, it is probably best to head out for Stonehenge immediately, getting there before the crowds get too thick. Special buses operated by Wilts & Dorset leave from the train station (1) frequently in season, less frequently in the off-season, and also from the bus station near the Market Place (11). For details see “Practicalities,” above. Those driving their own cars should just follow the directions in “Getting There,” above.

 *STONEHENGE (2), near Amesbury, T: (0870) 333-1181, W: english-heritage.org.uk. Open daily 9:30-6, 9-7 from June-Aug. Closed Dec. 24, 25. ££. Snack bar. Gift shop. Audio tour.

Stonehenge is a massive circular group of standing stones, erected in several stages between the Late Neolithic and Middle Bronze ages. It seems to have been a temple of sorts, but anything beyond that is speculation. What is truly marvelous about the place is that you can believe anything you want about it, no matter how outrageous, and no one can prove you wrong. Go right ahead and indulge your imagination. Perhaps Merlin really did build it by magic, or maybe it actually was an astronomical observatory, or even a temple of the Druids. Who knows? One thing is certain, however. What you get out of it is what you put in. To approach this site without preparation is to see a pile of rocks and little else. Pamphlets explaining some of the theories are sold near the entrance, although advance homework will make you visit more rewarding. Currently, there are plans afoot to move the A344 highway and the visitor center some distance from the site, restoring some of Stonehenge’s mysterious natural setting by perhaps 2012. Much of this can be explored now on the many walking trails.

On the way back you should try to make a stop at the ruins of Old Sarum, the original Salisbury, described in the introductory paragraph above. From there return to the train station and start exploring “new” Salisbury.

Leaving the train station (1), walk down to the River Nadder and cross it on a footbridge. A footpath from here leads through delightful countryside to the ancient Harnham Mill (3) (photo, left), parts of which may date from the 13th century. Now an inn, its bucolic setting is a scene right out of a Constable landscape. All along the way there are wonderful views of the cathedral.

Return to Queen Elizabeth Gardens (4) and follow the map across the 15th-century Crane Bridge. Turn right at High Street and stroll through North Gate (5), a 14th-century structure that once protected the bishops from rebellious citizens. The Mompesson House (6) on Choristers' Green, built in 1701, has an exquisite Queen Anne interior with notable plasterwork and an elegant carved oak staircase. There is also a delightful walled garden. Today, Mompesson House is owned by the National Trust. T: (01722) 335-659, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open mid-March through Oct., Sat.-Wed., 11-5. Last admission at 4:30. ££, garden only ₤. 

From here it’s only steps to:

*SALISBURY CATHEDRAL (7), The Close, T: (01722) 555-120, W: salisburycathedral.org.uk. Open daily 7:15-6:15, remaining open until 8:15 from June-Aug. Donation: ££. Tours. Gift shop. Cafeteria.

Salisbury Cathedral (photo, right) was built over a very short time span, from 1220 to 1258, which accounts for its remarkable architectural unity. It is the purest example of the Early English style to be found anywhere in the kingdom. The graceful tower was added a century later and, at 404 feet, is the loftiest spire built during the medieval period.

At first glance, its interior seems somewhat disappointing for so majestic a structure. This is due to an overzealous spring housecleaning in the 18th century that stripped it of much of the medieval clutter that make other churches so fascinating. Yet, there are many interesting things to see, starting with the 14th-century clock mechanism at the west end of the north aisle. Still in operating condition, it is thought to be the oldest in England and perhaps in the world. The West Window contains some good 13th-century stained glass, as does the Lady Chapel at the east end.

Stroll out into the Cloisters, the largest in England, and visit the adjoining *Chapter House, whose treasures include one of the four existing original copies of the Magna Carta, as well as 13th-century sculptures illustrating scenes from the Old Testament. Roof and tower tours, offering great views, are held several times a day.

A stroll around Cathedral Close makes a pleasant break before continuing on. The Bishop's Palace, now occupied by the Cathedral School, and the Old Deanery are particularly fine 13th-century buildings within the precincts. Be sure to visit the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum (8) in the King's House along West Walk. Its displays include models and relics from Stonehenge and Old Sarum, along with items of local history, porcelains, 17th-century rooms, an old doctor’s office, clothing, Turner watercolors, and the like. T: (01722) 332-151, W: salisburymuseum.org.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5, and on Sun. in July and Aug., 2-5. ££. Restaurant.

You may also be interested in seeing The Wardrobe (9), a military museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment. Recalling life in a county regiment, it is located in another nearby historic house and features beautiful waterside gardens. T: (01722) 419-419, W: thewardrobe.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10-4; Feb.-March and Nov. Tues.-Sun. 10-5. ££. Tea room with light lunches.

Follow North Walk to the Malmesbury House (10), an historic mansion that grew out of a 13th-century canonry. Now restored to its 18th-century splendor, it played a role in the Civil War and was home to a direct ancestor of the present queen. Charles II stayed here, as did the composer Handel, whose ghost (or perhaps someone else’s) still haunts the premises. Visits, with or without apparitions, may be made by prior arrangement. T: (01722) 327-027.

 

Handel gave his first public concert in England in a room above the adjacent St. Ann's Gate. Pass under this and turn left on St. John's Street, following the map to the Market Place (11). Markets have been held here twice a week since 1361, a custom that continues today.

Cut through to Silver Street. The beautiful hexagonal Poultry Cross (12) was first mentioned in 1335 as the spot where poultry was sold. Around the corner, approached through alleyways, is St. Thomas's Church (13), one of the most interesting buildings in Salisbury. Founded in honor of Thomas à Becket about 1220, it was rebuilt in the 15th century and has a marvelous medieval fresco known as the Doom Painting, depicting the Last Judgement, above its chancel arch. This was whitewashed over during the Reformation and not rediscovered until the 19th century. The colorful area around the church is the perfect spot to wind up your tour.

If you decided not to go to Stonehenge, you might want instead to visit:

*WILTON HOUSE (14), Wilton, Salisbury, T: (01722) 746-720, W: wiltonhouse.com. Located 2½ miles west of Salisbury on the A30. Frequent bus service from central Salisbury on routes 60 or 61 (hourly on Sun.), or drive or take a taxi there. Open May-Aug., Sun.-Thurs., noon-5, last admission at 4. £££. Cafeteria.

One of England's most attractive stately homes, Wilton (old engraving, left) is filled with outstanding art and has acres and acres of lovely gardens. Henry VIII gave the first Wilton House to William Herbert in 1541, who soon thereafter became the Earl of Pembroke. Destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt by the great architect Inigo Jones for the fifth earl. The present resident is the 18th Earl of Pembroke. Visits begin with a video, followed by a tour of the kitchen. Shakespeare dedicated the first folio of his plays to the third earl, so there’s a statue of him in the hall. Wilton’s most noted sight is the extravagant *Double Cube Room with its vast Van Dyke portrait of the Pembroke family. There is an American connection here as well, as this is where General Eisenhower planned much of the Normandy invasion of 1944. On the lighter side, check out the delightful display of some 200 costumed teddy bears in their own miniature house and stables. Don’t miss the amazing *Palladian Bridge, spanning the River Nadder in the landscaped parkland. If some of this looks familiar, it should because many movies and TV specials have been filmed here — and still are.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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Netherlands Open-Air Museum

Heading for Amsterdam? Here's a Dutch Treat that's sure to please, taken from the pages of my guidebook Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg, Fourth Edition.

Trip 21

A Daytrip from Amsterdam

Netherlands Open-Air Museum at Arnhem

Outdoor folk museums have become increasingly popular in Europe and throughout the world as more of the countryside succumbs to modern development and the traditional ways of life disappear. In many cases they are the only realistic way of saving a nation's domestic heritage from being paved over to make way for yet more shopping malls. Typically, threatened structures ranging from thatched farm cottages to early industrial buildings are moved into a protected park setting and reassembled in village groupings according to the region they represent. Trained personnel, often in folk costumes, carry on the old crafts and farm the fields in the traditional way, while reconstructed country inns continue to serve age-old recipes. A visit to one of the better open-air museums can be a lot of fun, and may be the only chance you'll ever get to experience some aspects of the Old World.

There are several open-air museums in Holland, notably at Zaanse Schans and Enkhuizen, but this one, at Arnhem, is by far the largest and most complete. Spread over an area of about 75 acres, it was begun in 1912 and now contains roughly 100 structures. All of these have been restored to their original appearance, and many are filled with period furnishings. Besides the farmhouses and barns, there are workshops, windmills, bridges, inns, a school, a church, and even some urban buildings.

The museum suggests several routes; the one described here is a modified version of them. In addition to walking, there are historic trams operating all over the park that you can ride. At the entrance pavilion is a special exhibition called the HollandRama, showing regional costumes and historical material. Food and drinks are offered at several places along the way, as are rest rooms.

By getting off to an early start, it is entirely possible to combine this trip in the same day with one to the Hoge Veluwe National Park with its famous Kröller-Müller Museum. This is described in the next chapter. To do this by public transportation, you must first return to the bus stop in front of the Arnhem train station. Those with cars can drive directly there.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Amsterdam's Centraal Station frequently for the 68-minute ride to Arnhem. A few require a change at Utrecht. In addition to the regular IC expresses, there are slightly faster ICE trains that require a supplementary fare. Return service operates until late evening. Schedules at W: ns.nl.

By Car, head south from Amsterdam on the A-2 highway past Utrecht, then take the A-12 east to the Arnhem-Apeldoorn exit and follow local signs to the Openlucht Museum. The total distance is 99 km (62 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

The museum is open daily from April through October, with a variable winter season. Good weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip. The Tourist Office in Arnhem (VVV), T: (0900) 1122344 (toll call) or W: vvvarnhem.nl, is at Stationsplein 13, by the station.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are several places to eat and drink at the outdoor museum as well as restaurants and cafés in Arnhem. Some choices are:

AT THE MUSEUM:

Café (at the entrance pavilion) Sandwiches and light refreshments. €

De Hanekamp (near the far end) Pancakes and snacks. €

Kasteeboerderij (by the lake) A self-service restaurant with full meals. € and €€

IN ARNHEM:

Hotel Haarhuis (1 Stationsplein, across from the station) Good-value meals in a small hotel.  (026) 442-7441. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

The easiest way to get from the Arnhem Train Station to the open-air museum is to take bus number 3 in the direction of Alteveer. During the summer months there is also the direct bus number 13. Both depart fre-quently from the square in front of the station, and the ride takes 10 minutes. Otherwise, it's a 2½-mile taxi ride or walk.

*NETHERLANDS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM (Nederlands Openlucht Museum) (1–18),  Schelmseweg 89, Arnhem, T: (026) 357-6111 or W: openluchtmuseum.nl. Open April through October, daily 10-5, variable schedule in winter. Museum Card accepted. €€€, includes HollandRama. Historic trams provide transportation in the park. An illustrated guide booklet in English is sold at the gate.

At the entrance (1) is an exhibition pavilion called HollandRama, where you can see regional costumes, historic material, and special shows in a multimedia spectacular. Just beyond this turn left and stroll down to the Horse-Drawn Oil Mill (2) from the province of Gelderland. Converted from a farmhouse around 1830, it was used to extract lighting and cooking oils by crushing seeds such as rape or flax. Close to this is a small thatched-roof Veluwe Farmhouse (3) from around 1850, whose furnished interior may be visited.

The route now passes a small exhibition of beekeeping on the way to the Betuwe Farmhouse (4), a rather large structure originally built in 1646. Also from Gelderland Province, it has an attached barn and a nicely-furnished interior.

Return past the bees and turn left to the romantically sited Farmhouse from Giethoorn (5) (photo, top of page), which of course is partially surrounded by water. Built in 1832, much of it was used for the storage of hay, with attractive living quarters at one end. Down the road from it stands the large Staphorst Farmhouse (6), a type still found in that conservative part of Holland. Most of this is devoted to the storage of hay, but the small living quarters are beautifully decorated with tiles and painted furniture. Behind it is the Farmhouse with a Pyramid Roof, erected in 1745 in North Holland province, and associated with the making of Edam cheeses.

The route now enters a small village over a typical wooden drawbridge (photo, above) from around 1800. The Merchant's House (7) from Koog on the Zaan (near Zaanse Schans) partially dates from 1686 and has the sort of com-fortable interior favored by the 19th-century bourgeoisie. Adjacent to this is a tradesman's house from the same area, which now serves as a souvenir shop.

Turn left and stroll through the village to the Fisherman's Cottage from Marken (8), which is similar to the ones you find today on the island in the IJsselmeer just north of Amsterdam. Its tiny interior has excellent exam-ples of the traditional cupboard beds then popular in the north.

Continue on past an early-!9th-century Laundry (9) that was brought here from an area near Haarlem. Close to it is a refreshment stand, where you can take a break before admiring the unusual Post Windmill (10). This was once used to grind grain in North Holland, and parts of it are over 300 years old.

The Paper Mill from the Veluwe (11) (photo, above) is in a beautifully wooded location between two ponds. Powered by an overshot waterwheel, its mechanisms still work and are used to give demonstrations of hand paper-making.

Although it is a re-creation and not an original, the Parlor from Hindeloopen (12) is quite interesting for the stylized painted furniture that has come to be associated with that former Zuider Zee town.

Now follow the map past the lovely Herb Garden to the Frisian Farmstead (13), whose rather elegant living quarters reflect the prosperity of that dairy region. Near this is the Farmhouse from Beerta (14), an area in Groningen province. Its living section has been restored to the state it was in around 1935, after electrification provided such luxuries as lighting, kitchen appliances, and a radio. In contrast, the Drenthe Farmhouse (15) is a large but rather primitive affair dating from around 1700.

Continue on to the De Hanekamp Inn (16), an 18th-century country inn from Zwolle. It now functions as a delightful café for museum visitors, with both indoor and outdoor tables.

Limburg province, in the south and much hillier than the rest of Holland, is represented by the Krawinkel Farmstead (17) and other nearby structures. From here the route passes a grouping of various Windmills (18) (photo, left) on the way back to the entrance.

Text, map, and drawbridge photo copyright © 2006 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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Chantilly, France

Visitors to Paris should not miss this really simple one-day outing, taken directly from the pages of my guidebook, Daytrips France, 6th Edition.

Trip 11

A Daytrip from Paris

Chantilly

The Île-de-France region is justly renowned for its many splendid châteaux. Some of these, especially Versailles, are monumental in scope while others, such as Fontainebleau, leave the visitor endowed with an immensely satisfying sense of history. For sheer beauty, however, the dream-like Château of Chantilly is by far the most outstanding. Many even consider it to be the loveliest in all France. This is surely reason enough to make the easy daytrip, but Chantilly gilds the lily with yet more sumptuous attractions. There are enchanted gardens, a magnificent forest, one of the nation's best art museums, stables that resemble a palace, a world-famous racetrack, a great horse training center and — of course — the delicious whipped cream and black lace for which the town is noted.

Chantilly has an illustrious history going back to a Roman named Cantilius. The present château — actually two separate châteaux joined by a common entrance — is the fifth on the same site. Its larger part, the impossibly romantic Grand Château, is a late-19th-century pastiche while the older Petit Château dates from the 16th century. It was here that a well-known event (or story!) occurred in 1671, when Louis XIV came calling for a three-day visit — along with five thousand of his retainers. The greatest chef in France at the time, François Vatel, was employed at the château and had to feed all those hungry mouths on virtually no notice. Things went wrong and finally, when the promised fish failed to arrive in time, the overwrought Vatel ended it all with a sword thrust through his body.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Nord Station in Paris almost hourly for the 30-minute ride to Chantilly-Gouvieux. Return service operates until early evening. There are also slightly slower trains on the RER commuter service.

By Car, leave Paris on the A-1 Autoroute, switching to the N-l near St.-Denis and then to the N-16. Chantilly is about 40 km (25 miles) north of Paris.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for a visit to Chantilly. Avoid coming on a Tuesday, when nearly everything is closed. The local tourist information office, T: 03-4467-3737, W: chantilly-tourisme.com, is at 60 Avenue du Maréchal-Joffre, between the train station and the town. Bicycles may be rented nearby. Chantilly has a population of about 11,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are several good restaurants and cafés between the train station and the château. At the attractions themselves, some choices are:

Les Goûtes Champêtres (at Le Hameau, in the park of the château) Lunch in the gardens, or just a dessert with real Chantilly cream. X: mid-Nov. to mid-March. €€ and €€€

Carrousel Restaurant (at the Grandes Écuries) Lunches in the elegant courtyard of the Horse Museum. T: 03-4457-1977. X: Tues., weekdays in winter. €€

La Capitainerie (in the château) A self-service cafeteria for light lunches. T: 03-4457-1589. X: Tues. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Chantilly-Gouvieux train station (1) and follow the map to the Hippodrome (racetrack) (2), where the prestigious Prix de Diane and Prix du Jockey Club races are run on the first and second Sundays of June. This beautifully situated course has been attracting Paris society since 1836. Continue on to the:

*CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY (3), T: 03-4462-6262, W: chateaudechantilly.com. Open March–Oct., Wed.–Mon., 10–6; shorter hours Nov.–March. Closed Tues. Last entry 45 minutes before closing. Park open every day. Château and park: €€, park only: €.

Chantilly’s magnificent château rises from the middle of a tiny lake like a fantastic scene from a fairy tale. As a special treat and for a small extra charge, you can ride on the Hydrophile, an electric boat on the Grand Canal that operates from April through October. 

Cross the bridge and enter the Musée Condé, a museum that occupies the entire château. The sumptuous collection of art, along with the estate, was bequeathed to the Institut de France in 1897 by its last owner, the Duke of Aumale, fifth son of Louis-Philippe, the last king of France. A guide booklet in English is available at the entrance.

The rooms to your right, in the Grand Château, contain the picture galleries and may be seen at your own leisure. Laid out in a charming 19th-century style, the walls are covered from top to bottom with an amazingly good collection of canvases. To see the rest of the château you will have to take a guided tour, included in the admission price. Don't miss the private apartments in the Petit Château, especially the Chapel and the Library, whose greatest treasure is the *Trés Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, one of the greatest masterpieces of the Middle Ages. Because of its fragile condition, this is rarely exhibited, but copies are on display.

Leave the château and walk straight ahead into the park. Once in the woods, turn right and follow the map past the tiny Chapel of St. Paul to the Maison de Sylvie (4), a house with a long history of romantic affairs. The paths now lead through an enchanted forest, complete with statuary in little clearing, to Le Hameau (5), a rustic hamlet where the nobility played at being peasants. This was the prototype for Marie-Antoinette's famous hameau at Versailles. Continue around to the formal gardens and waterways (6) designed by that great landscape artist, André Le Nôtre, who was also largely responsible for the gardens at Versailles.

The picturesque Jardin Anglais (English Gardens) (7) come as a great contrast. Stroll through them to the Ile d'Amour (8), an idyllic little island, then continue on to the Jeu de Paume (9), which is sometimes open.

One last sight remains at Chantilly, just outside the palace precincts. This is the Grandes Écuries (10), a stable built like a fabulous palace. The story is told about the Duke of Bourbon, owner of the château during the early 18th century, having this luxurious barn erected because he expected to be reincarnated as a horse and wanted to assure his future comfort. Whether this event actually occurred is not known, but the posh interiors are open to visitors as the Musée Vivant du Cheval (Living Museum of the Horse). Demonstrations of dressage, a great treat, are given several times daily. T: 03-4457-4040, W: musee-vivant-du-cheval.fr. Open April–Oct., Wed.–Fri. 10:30–5:30, Sat.–Sun. & holidays 10:30–6; Nov.–March, Wed.–Fri. 2–5, Sat.–Sun. & holidays 10:30–5:30. €€.

Text, maps and B&W photos copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker. Top color photo by Tango7174, used under GNU Free Documentation License.

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A Fond Farewell To Kodachrome

After a 74-year run, Kodak's classic color film is being retired. For good. And with honors. I will miss it.

This, even though I haven't used any in nearly three decades. 

Kodachrome images of my childhood from the late 1930s still survive with all their bright, saturated colors intact. I grew up with this stuff in the 1940s and 50s, and used vast quantities of it during my previous career as a professional photographer. Photos I took of Japan during my stint in the U.S. Army from 1957 through 59 are as good today as the day they were taken, long after slides on other color films have faded.

To fully appreciate Kodachrome's incredible quality and its impact on the world of images you must dig a little into the history of color photography. Although experiments in adding hues to photos began in the 1840s, the first commercially viable process was Autochrome, invented by the Lumìere brothers of France in 1903. This was soon followed by another French system, Dufaycolor, in 1908. Both were "additive" processes made up of microscopic bits of solid colors deposited on a glass plate. By 1932 these emulsions became available on a flexible film base, suitable for use in movies and regular amateur cameras. While the resultant photos could be quite lovely, they fell apart when substantially enlarged as the individual color dots became apparent. The glass plates also required a great deal of exposure and were difficult to view. 

In the mid-1920s two professional musicians who were long fascinated by the idea of color photography, violinist Leopold Godowsky Jr. and pianist Leopold Mannes, met an important scientist employed by Kodak. He arranged for them to be financed in their experiments, which by 1930 had led to a viable two-color movie film. They then became employees of Kodak and by 1935 had perfected Kodachrome, a three-color "subtractive" process that consisted of three Black & White emulsion layers, each representing a primary color. These were then dyed during development. This singular fact is what has for 74 years given Kodachrome such pure colors and such longevity. It also made Kodachrome incredibly complex to process, a service that for years could only be done by Kodak itself, and later by only a few laboratories.

The new Kodachrome was first marketed in 1935 in the 16mm home movie format, and in 1936 in 8mm as well as in 35mm and 828 roll-film sizes for amateur still photography (photo, left). Later it also became available as 120 roll film and 4x5 sheet film for professional use. Initially it had a "speed" equivalent of ISO 8 in today's terms, but later versions had "speeds" of 25, 40, 64, and 200.

One frame of 35mm Kodachrome, when digitally scanned, contains the equivalent of 20 megapixels of data, resulting in an exceptionally high-definition image suitable for considerable enlargement. This, and the purity of its colors, is why it became a favorite among professional photographers.

Over the years, however, other color films by Kodak, Agfa, Fuji and others had improved to the point of being almost (but not quite!) as good. These could be easily processed by the user or by small local labs. Consequently, Kodachrome sales declined — and then came the digital revolution. Yesterday, on June 22 2009, Kodak announced that no more will be made and that current stocks should last until about Fall of this year. Processing will be available until the end of 2010.

So, thank you, Kodachrome, for all the wonderful color you brought into our lives.

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